DIY Wooden Pickup Truck Cargo Divider
|This pickup truck bed divider
to make, easy to build, it's relatively light and only takes a few hours to
Here's a few
photos, in case you were thinking of building a
divider that's a little different.
conventional 2x8" board didn't provide enough room in the area
between the rear slots of the
bedliner and the tailgate. Anything that didn't fit needed to be
lifted over this one - kind of a pain with the tonneau cover in
place. This old divider isn't used anymore, just placed
here for the photo, however you could
use both if needed.
|A couple of 2x4s, a 2x10,
some 2.5" deck screws and some glue are all that's needed.
By using the front slots in the trucks bedliner, there's not
that constant pain of lifting objects over the traditional rear board
using the rear slots.
This design also creates 4 extra bonus partitions
up front to keep things from sliding around the front and
middle of the pickup truck box. The small side pockets
hold two anti-freeze windshield wiper bottles each.
|The slots in the trucks bedliner
are slightly curved at the bottom, so some fine tuning of the
2x4 with the belt sander was required for a "very" tight fit. Do this board first as you will
have to adjust it a few times before starting the assembly.
A couple of dado joints in the 2x4
increased the gluing area and then everything was glued and screwed.
|Drilled 3 large holes and routered them as
well as routering the 2x4s to lighten everything up a bit.
Drilled smaller holes for bungee cords to
go through (middle) and even smaller ones (top) for bungee hooks
to insert into.
Two eye-hooks were added after this photo
was taken which seem
to get used the most (see first photo above).
Rocker Guard" to match the bedliner and waterproof the wood.
|Just another photo of the completed
unit placed in the truck.
pickup truck bed divider is surprisingly light
yet stays in place even over the roughest roads and potholes.
|Plenty of room for cargo and tools
now, and no lifting heavy objects over the traditional rear board.
All of the
rear cargo can still be reached from the tailgate without having to use a pole etc.
(This looks like a crazy long reach because of the wide lens on
the camera, see photo 3 above for a better perspective.)
The 2x10 can
always be moved towards the back of the truck during
construction for shorter arms.
Added some ~8" strips of 1/2" foam
(see update below), double-sided
taped to the bottom of the 2x10 to reduce a clunk when going
over sharp bumps. The semi hard foam took on the shape of the
bedliner floor, reduced any noise and still lets water drain if
It's been years ( 2014 ) since installing this divider and I've
been noticing a thump going over sharp bumps and potholes. It
sounded almost like a loose exhaust hanger. Most people wont care about such noises, but
sounds coming from my truck irritate me, so I added this quick fix.
I wanted a solution that would not require tools to remove the
divider. I ended up using two simple wooden struts that use foam
(a cut up "pool noodle" from the dollar store) for tension and
suspension. You can see them here at the heaviest part of the
|Here you can see a close up of the
strut and foam. Cut the strut to almost the exact size and
angles required, but leave it a little short, then use the foam
to make up the difference and keep the strut pressed tightly to
the underside of the box rail. Caution: Be careful not to make
the strut so crazy tight that it deforms the bed rail.
The foam will wear out over
time so a few wraps of electrical tape will help slow the
Several wraps of tape on the strut where it touches the
paint under the bed rail will help save the paint from damage /
To install, press the strut into the foam at the
bottom, then angle the strut until it fits under the rail, then
slide the strut back along the bottom of the rail until it is
straight and the foam is compressed and tight.
just give the strut a knock towards the front of the truck and
it will fall out.